bites, thorns, mud, and butterflies

It’s a jungle out there ….

and the Rio Pacuare is cutting its path through the middle of Costa Rica’s lush mountains.

If you have never been in a tropical jungle it can over-stimulate the senses.  It is a mesh of layered noises, sounds, shapes, and colors.  I have witnessed myself and others be amazed by the richness.  

 

 It takes a few days before one’s eyes are able to see all the shades of green within its density where all available space is readily filled.  The orchestra of insects, bird calls, and rushing water is at first an overwhelming grey noise that eventually divides itself into specific identifiable songs that shift with time of day and climate.  As a result the jungle is a magic that creates a full-system sensuality within its dripping grasp.  

With such competition on hand the creatures (flora and fauna) of this land evolve to protect, attract, or hide.   

This last week I was reminded of the many protective mechanisms that just a few of these creatures display.  My exposed surfaces are scratched, bruised, and bitten.  What sometimes appears as soft green layers amongst the many are, upon closer inspection (or contact), well-armored systems ready to protect or attach themselves from or to you.

Even the cane grass that quickly establishes along rivers to heights often two or more meters tall are serrated with particularly effective barbs.  A 10cm scratch from mid-armpit to across my shoulder blade was acquired while trying to manipulate a 3.6m long extension pole with a camera mounted on top of it through the barbs.  Though bothersome, at the end of each day the bites and barbs act as some sort of earned wound.  A set of itchy insect bites is a reminder of the 200 meters of boulders I hopped across numerous times in the warm sun while the clatter of tucans was barely audible over the rush of the water flowing by. 

One evening after work this week while I was downloading field data onto my computer a friend "chatted" me over the internet.  I was freshly out of the shower with the surface mud and sweat from the day washed down the drain.  She was in a modern hip US city where she talked about last night’s date and her fresh pedicure.  I looked down at my legs and feet, pocked with bites, sun tanned, and scratched.  I could not have been happier – to be where I am and to be connecting to other worlds that remind us how good it can be everywhere. 

Pacuare field season 2

Where am I? ..... 

I’m back ---- in the central mountains of Costa Rica.  The doctoral research continues as does my love affair with the mountains and rivers here.  

Upon returning to the banks of the Rio Pacuare I realized that some little piece of my soul is now forever linked to its waters.   Perhaps this is my nature with wild rivers, or perhaps the Pacuare is “special” somehow – either way, it feels damn good to be here

 

 

How did I get to work here again?

 … Last year while completing the first year of field work on the Pacuare (funded through SYLFF Intl research fellowship) I also drafted and submitted grant proposals to ensure that the study would be completed.   Not every application was successful but the Geological Society of America and the National Science Foundation both chose to fund my study on the geomorphology of the Rio Pacuare.  Yeeeeha!  let the science happen.

And so far?  ….. 

These first nine days have been full. 

First I researched many, test drove four, and then bought one field rig.  This can be an arduous processes in any country.  However, it did kick-started my Spanish.  Though just 6 months Spanish-free did notably reduced my vocabulary it’s coming back.   Plus, whilst in the process of purchasing her 1989 Toyota 4Runner I made a new grand friend.  

Next, I moved in to my apartment in Verbena on the flanks of Volcan Turrialba about 5km outside of the town of Turrialba Costa Rica.   

This will be my headquarters for the next couple of months.  

I needed a day of prepping for field work which included getting parts and pieces at the local hardware stores.  

AND FINALLY – three days of field work completed with my trusted assistant.  

Today was a “home office” day with data and email and other such relatively dull things to sort. 
I have also connected with a few local friends and am generally getting my feet under me …..    Here we go!  

Highlights from the first field work days include:

 1 ) submerging myself in the sediment-rich rainy season waters of the Rio Pacuare;

 2) siting seven poison dart frogs (red with blue legs) in one day;

 3) seeing a small but torrent cabeza de agua on the Rio Suiza;

 4) finding all my survey points from last year at the 3 sites we worked at; 

5) noisy flocks of parrots in the afternoon just before the clouds close and the warm heavy rains start; 

6) getting re-inspired to complete this work. 

Stay tuned!